11/6/07: Curiosos Part II--Lijiang. Mission: Emily the Strange.

So where did we leave off?

Derek parted ways with the group in order to go back to work. Haley, Josh and I ventured to Lijiang.

History Lesson:

Lijiang, a small city located in Yunnan Province, is divided into new town and "Old Town".

After a 7.2 earthquake in February 1996, Old Town was extensively renovated, concrete buildings pulled down, and much of the original authenticity of Lijiang restored. With its functioning canals that line the narrow winding alleys and traditional Chinese architecture, Old Town retains much of its charm and is one of the more impressive stops in the entire region.

The dominant local ethnic minority in Lijiang is Naxi. The Naxi are reputedly matriarchal and hence property is traditionally inherited down the female line, and men move into their wife's family home after marriage.

Lijiang history and culture is not as rich and complex as nearby Dali, but it has been much more successful in attracting tourists. Prior to the Mongol invasion in the 12th century, Dali was the functioning capital and the 13th largest city in the world, while Lijiang was a minor regional town.

11/7/07: The Lake

Unfortunately, the weather in Lijiang was cold and damp. And after purchasing every fish motifed item (in honor of Dewayne) I could in Old Town, there really wasn't much else to see in the city.

We did, however, venture to this lake for a romantic paddle. It is always fun to be the third wheel.



My date, the boat captain:





A scene out of The Notebook:





This picture reminds me of a Successories mouse pad. I title it: Persistence.



Josh and Haley were brave enough to conquer this primitive squatter. Kudos. I, on the other hand, would rather be parched in order not to perch.



Warning, brief soap box moment: This poor creature was caged outside of our hot pot restaurant. Large strides in animal rights are needed.



Off the soap box, as we are already unable to access our blog from mainland China.

Due to inclement weather, we prepared for treacherous hiking conditions on our upcoming two day hike of Tiger Leaping Gorge.

Josh, was enamored by his shoe hunt while Haley and I shopped for some sexy 5 kuai long underwear. Fortunately, we were blessed with fantastic weather on the hike and shed these bad boys as we leapt the gorge.

11/8/07-11/9/07 Thunder Thunder Thunder Cats: We Are The Tiger Alliance Members

Below: geography lesson in italics, skip to the regular font section if you are disinterested and not an innate curioso.

About 100 kilometers (62 miles) northwest of Lijiang Old Town lying between Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (Yulong Xueshan) and Haba Snow Mountain (Haba Xueshan) is Tiger Leaping Gorge (Hutiao Gorge), which is believed to be the deepest gorge in the world. From the top of the gorge you look down the steeply angled (70-90 degrees) mountain sides to the rushing Golden Sands (Jingsha) River (part of the greater Yangtze River) with its 18 frothing rapids more than 200 meters (about 700 feet) below. In total, the gorge stretches about 15 kilometers (nine miles).

Naturally divided into three sections, the first section, which is the narrowest and uppermost section, is the mouth of the fast flowing Jingsha River. In the midst of the river's mouth is a large rock that is positioned at the gorge's narrowest section-only 30 meters (33 yards) wide. An ancient legend says that a tiger used this rock as its stepping stone so it could leap across from one side of the gorge to the other, which is how the gorge got its name.

As the river enters the middle section, it drops another 100 meters (330 feet) and its flow rate increases to an amazing speed. Here the thunderous rushing waters slam into sharp, large rocks and crash down into the river forming swirling whirlpools.

The third and lowest section is acclaimed for being the wildest attraction of all.

The cliffs over-looking this section are even steeper and much more dangerous. Here, the river twists and turns and the river vigorously surges forward creating high waves and a frothy spew as it collides with the mountainsides. This is a view that inspires a sense of adventure and satisfies the deepest yearnings for magnificent scenery.

Josh, Haley and I did a two day hike from Qiaotou, stopping at the Naxi Guesthouse for lunch, to the Upper Trail, over the 24 Bends, staying overnight at the Halfway Guesthouse, didn't stop at Sean's (we would have if Derek had made the trip) and then caught a 30RMB/person "ferry" at Walnut Grove. At least this is what I remember, can I get a confirmation?

The adventure along the way was amazing. We ate delicious Naxi sandwiches, met a wonderful German friend and a hilarious Japanese character, took a picture with Chinese Patrick Swayze, were able to witness mountain goats in their element, saw perhaps a total of 5 people along the trail (one of whom grew up in Minneapolis and is now living in Kenya), ate yummy chocolate banana pancakes, heard and witnessed thunderous avalanches from across the river, discussed the meaning of life and our quarter-life crossroads--all while working out our glutes!

The beginning of our trek, breathtaking:



Lunch at Naxi Guesthouse:



Below: our new friends, Johannes and Miki. I must share this awesome email I received from Miki after our journey together. He is a riot (who loves to take charge and order food):

"Dear Stacey,/ Thank you for your e-mail & lovely photos./ Dear everyone,/ I report the things happened after you three left Daju :/ I & Johannes(J) met Dutch cyclist couple whom we saw on the road. I taught them Ma-jiang (traditinal Chinese game by four players ). We enjoyed the playing & drinking in the guesthouse. And I taught Su-Mo (traditional Japanese wrestling) to J . It was a tough fight night...and at last I threw J . He hit his head on the ground . My poor J went to heaven./ But next day he quickly revived and walked around Daju village.We took a bus to Li-jiang. No check, no fee, no penalty ! Got bless us ! We hungry tigers ate delicious barbecue & enjoyed noisy night life in Li-jiang./ We went back to Kun-ming via Dali and separated. J always wrote travel diary earnestly. In future he will be one of the famous travel authors./ Now too late . I wish you all the best ! Minnesota
Twins gets championship ! Keep in touch . We are the tiger alliance members !"





Back on the trail: I had to pay a random Naxi lady 5 kuai so that Haley and I could sit on this rock and take a picture. You gotta love capitalism within a communist society.







We must have been a little slow moving because we only made it as far as the Halfway Guesthouse the first night.



The ABSOLUTELY STUNNING view from our bedroom for a mere 50 kuai/person. Pictures just don't do it justice.



Josh, we all love the tripod. Best China purchase? I think so.

 

The water closet wasn't fantastic, but it certainly had the best view of any other water closet I have been in.





Site of the fastest shower I have taken. I would have also given it the title of "coldest" shower taken but for the fact that Derek and I have gone through episodes of no hot water for days at a time in Beijing.

I would also like to take this moment to note that Josh was impressed by my non-Edina like toughness. Thank you, Josh.



The lobby:



The kitchen where delicious Naxi treats are made:



The owner of the Halfway Guesthouse, Chinese Patrick Swayze:



Day II. This shepherd was taking his goats out to graze.





After a treacherous walk along a sheer cliff, across the river we go:





The humorous thing about this sign is that if one was to attempt to swim across the river, I don't think they would have survived.



We made it! Almost. There was still a 40 minute uphill hike awaiting us from this point.



At the Daju finish line, a refreshing pijiu.

11/10/07: Don't Cube Yourself

Back to Beijing via Kunming.

The following is one description I stumbled upon about Kunming:

The capital of Yunnan Province, Kunming is known in China as the "City of Eternal Spring". Domestic and foreign tourists relish the temperate climate and comparatively pristine air of Kunming. In addition to its own charms it serves as a hub from which to explore Yunnan province. The city has a population of around 4 million.

To be fair, during our 8 hour layover we weren't able to capitalize on everything Kunming had to offer. BUT descriptors like "Eternal Spring" and "pristine air" seem to be a stretch.

A great segue to Old Man Josh's public stretching.






However, Kunming did have its definite highlights like this delicious little noodle shop on the side of the road.



Peking Opera performed at a local neighborhood theater which we stumbled upon behind a storefront.





To be a kid again and find joy in the simplest things, like dirt.



Insert background music: World, Hold On (Children of the Sky).

Haley and Josh, thank you for making the trip. As ALWAYS, it is an absolute pleasure to spend time with you both. We thoroughly enjoy your company and cherish your friendship. We just wish we knew more answers to your questions!

Let us continue to support and challenge each other as we quickly approach 11/08/08 and let us also find the simple joys in dirt. I know, deep. Ultimately, let us get to a point in life where we don't cube ourselves--if that is what will make us happiest. On a scale of 1 to 10, life is good.

Signing off,

Libra/Eldest Child