Talk'n The Talk & Wok'n The Wok

Saturday, February 02, 2008

11/8/07-11/9/07 Thunder Thunder Thunder Cats: We Are The Tiger Alliance Members

Below: geography lesson in italics, skip to the regular font section if you are disinterested and not an innate curioso.

About 100 kilometers (62 miles) northwest of Lijiang Old Town lying between Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (Yulong Xueshan) and Haba Snow Mountain (Haba Xueshan) is Tiger Leaping Gorge (Hutiao Gorge), which is believed to be the deepest gorge in the world. From the top of the gorge you look down the steeply angled (70-90 degrees) mountain sides to the rushing Golden Sands (Jingsha) River (part of the greater Yangtze River) with its 18 frothing rapids more than 200 meters (about 700 feet) below. In total, the gorge stretches about 15 kilometers (nine miles).

Naturally divided into three sections, the first section, which is the narrowest and uppermost section, is the mouth of the fast flowing Jingsha River. In the midst of the river's mouth is a large rock that is positioned at the gorge's narrowest section-only 30 meters (33 yards) wide. An ancient legend says that a tiger used this rock as its stepping stone so it could leap across from one side of the gorge to the other, which is how the gorge got its name.

As the river enters the middle section, it drops another 100 meters (330 feet) and its flow rate increases to an amazing speed. Here the thunderous rushing waters slam into sharp, large rocks and crash down into the river forming swirling whirlpools.

The third and lowest section is acclaimed for being the wildest attraction of all.

The cliffs over-looking this section are even steeper and much more dangerous. Here, the river twists and turns and the river vigorously surges forward creating high waves and a frothy spew as it collides with the mountainsides. This is a view that inspires a sense of adventure and satisfies the deepest yearnings for magnificent scenery.


Josh, Haley and I did a two day hike from Qiaotou, stopping at the Naxi Guesthouse for lunch, to the Upper Trail, over the 24 Bends, staying overnight at the Halfway Guesthouse, didn't stop at Sean's (we would have if Derek had made the trip) and then caught a 30RMB/person "ferry" at Walnut Grove. At least this is what I remember, can I get a confirmation?

The adventure along the way was amazing. We ate delicious Naxi sandwiches, met a wonderful German friend and a hilarious Japanese character, took a picture with Chinese Patrick Swayze, were able to witness mountain goats in their element, saw perhaps a total of 5 people along the trail (one of whom grew up in Minneapolis and is now living in Kenya), ate yummy chocolate banana pancakes, heard and witnessed thunderous avalanches from across the river, discussed the meaning of life and our quarter-life crossroads--all while working out our glutes!

The beginning of our trek, breathtaking:



Lunch at Naxi Guesthouse:



Below: our new friends, Johannes and Miki. I must share this awesome email I received from Miki after our journey together. He is a riot (who loves to take charge and order food):

"Dear Stacey,/ Thank you for your e-mail & lovely photos./ Dear everyone,/ I report the things happened after you three left Daju :/ I & Johannes(J) met Dutch cyclist couple whom we saw on the road. I taught them Ma-jiang (traditinal Chinese game by four players ). We enjoyed the playing & drinking in the guesthouse. And I taught Su-Mo (traditional Japanese wrestling) to J . It was a tough fight night...and at last I threw J . He hit his head on the ground . My poor J went to heaven./ But next day he quickly revived and walked around Daju village.We took a bus to Li-jiang. No check, no fee, no penalty ! Got bless us ! We hungry tigers ate delicious barbecue & enjoyed noisy night life in Li-jiang./ We went back to Kun-ming via Dali and separated. J always wrote travel diary earnestly. In future he will be one of the famous travel authors./ Now too late . I wish you all the best ! Minnesota
Twins gets championship ! Keep in touch . We are the tiger alliance members !"





Back on the trail: I had to pay a random Naxi lady 5 kuai so that Haley and I could sit on this rock and take a picture. You gotta love capitalism within a communist society.







We must have been a little slow moving because we only made it as far as the Halfway Guesthouse the first night.



The ABSOLUTELY STUNNING view from our bedroom for a mere 50 kuai/person. Pictures just don't do it justice.



Josh, we all love the tripod. Best China purchase? I think so.

 
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The water closet wasn't fantastic, but it certainly had the best view of any other water closet I have been in.





Site of the fastest shower I have taken. I would have also given it the title of "coldest" shower taken but for the fact that Derek and I have gone through episodes of no hot water for days at a time in Beijing.

I would also like to take this moment to note that Josh was impressed by my non-Edina like toughness. Thank you, Josh.



The lobby:



The kitchen where delicious Naxi treats are made:



The owner of the Halfway Guesthouse, Chinese Patrick Swayze:



Day II. This shepherd was taking his goats out to graze.





After a treacherous walk along a sheer cliff, across the river we go:





The humorous thing about this sign is that if one was to attempt to swim across the river, I don't think they would have survived.



We made it! Almost. There was still a 40 minute uphill hike awaiting us from this point.



At the Daju finish line, a refreshing pijiu.

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