Talk'n The Talk & Wok'n The Wok

Wednesday, April 09, 2008

2/2/08-2/12/08: Vietnam with Beijing Best Friends Forever

Over Chun Jie (Chinese New Year), April and I were able to convince Justin and Derek to leave Mistress Ogilvy behind and to explore northern/central Vietnam with us for ten days.

Over the course of a week and a half--we started in the capital city of Hanoi, took an overnight train to Sapa, flew to Hoi An, drove to Hue, flew back to Hanoi, drove to Halong Bay and then hit the capital city again before flying home to Beijing.

The adventure was filled with uncomfortable sleeping quarters, colder than anticipated weather, delicious food, nicknames, pig sacrifices, blood drinking, muddy slip and falls, happy water, cold showers and treasure hunts.

Justin and April, we love traveling with you guys. You will always be number one (said in a Justin voice) in our hearts...at least until the triplets come along.

Let the recap begin! From Beijing we flew into Guangzhou--slightly concerned that the snow storms would hinder our layover. But no worries, armed with our red transfer stickers, we had a free pass to anywhere in the world. No tickets necessary.

 
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After a long day of travel and a pit stop at the corrupt visa station, we arrived at the "No Heat Hostel" who managed to give away our reserved 4 person suite. April and I settled on the Penthouse. The less fortunate Justin and Derek bunked with 6 strangers. Between the cold temperature and cacophony of snores, cats in heat and church bells--the experience was, as Justin puts it, AWE-SOME.



Refreshed, we hit the city of Hanoi.

Vietnam’s capital city offers a unique blend of oriental and western charm. The Old Quarter is decorated with exotic brightly painted temples and pagodas, elegant ochre-washed colonial villas, bustling narrow streets and alleys, grand tree-lined boulevards and shaded lakes. First established as Vietnam’s capital in 1010, when it was known as Thang Long, the city’s name changed several times before it eventually became Hanoi in 1831.







The first two things we noticed about Hanoi were the plethora of scooters and national flags on display.



The first thing April learned about traveling with Derek: One will never go hungry. The man is a bottomless pit who enjoys xiao chi (small snacks).



With the 2008 Presidential race underway, it was especially meaningful to visit Hoa Lo Prison. U.S. POWs dubbed Hoa Lo the "Hanoi Hilton" during their imprisonment--Senator John McCain, who was among them, suffered 5 years of grueling torture at this historical site.

Long before the Vietnam War, the French built the prison to detain Vietnamese dissidents. The exhibits manage to emphasize the horrid conditions under French rule while simultaneously painting a somewhat rosy picture of POW life.





On a lighter note, just to the south of the bustling Old Quarter streets is Hoan Kiem Lake, an oasis of calm right in the center of the city. Some of the capital’s finest colonial buildings can be found nearby--including the magnificent Opera House, History Museum and the Metropole Hotel (although, my personal favorite is Hotel Sofitel--can I get an Amen, April?).





The weather was much colder than what weather.com led us to believe. It was chilly for us Gophers, much less a Florida Gator. So, it was time to shop for long underwear, hiking boots, jackets, hats and gloves (or what lovingly became known as our uniforms). This experience exhausted Justin--who looks pretty bad ass in this photo.



With our winter gear and happy water in tow, it was off to the train station.



Derek and Justin getting in trouble for not paying to use the bathroom.



Whereas, April and Stacey were ready to go.



Our suite. Snug as a bug in a rug. Believe it or not, these sleeping quarters were much more comfortable than the hostel. Plus, as a bonus, we entertained ourselves by singing as many songs as we could think of. Our poor neighbors, they received an earful of the best of the 80s, 90s and today.



We arrived just outside of Sapa (Lao Cai) at 5am. We were so slow at organizing and disembarking that they turned the lights and power off on us (families with newborns beat us off the train). It was pitch black but luckily April brought her head light. As you can tell from this picture, Derek didn't appreciate the camera flash so early in the morning.



Eventually, Justin called Annie (Ahn)--we found our driver and made it to Sapa for our 2 day hike and overnight homestay.

Sapa is an incredibly picturesque village that lies on the Hoang Lien Son mountain range near the Chinese border in northwest Vietnam. During our two day hike we were able to experience hill tribe people, their villages, rice terraces, piles of buffalo dung and lush vegetation.





A little "Down by the Banks" with the local Sapa girls.







April, we look like we are 10 years old.



Derek calling Mike in order to get Super Bowl updates.





Sapa & Hoi An. There Will Be Blood.

Faces of Sapa:









Even on a hike through the remote villages of northern Vietnam, karaoke was still readily available.

"It's gonna take a lot to drag me away from you. There's nothing that a hundred men or more could ever do. I bless the rains down in Africa."



Remember when I fell down the hill?



The so-called Hot Springs:



Our homestay hood:



A nearby school:



The front of our home:



Front porch:



The main level bedrooms/living space:



Justin & November's side of the loft:



Our side:



The kitchen (can you find the pig head?):



Sitting around the kitchen while Mom and our guide, Mei, prepare dinner:



A delicious meal with Brother Shnick and Mei. Favorite course: french fries.



Pictured below is Uncle, who also lived in the village with his family. Uncle and Dad took a special liking to Justin--who they nicknamed "Buffalo". Derek was named "Man".



On our overnight stay, Uncle invited us to his home in order to sacrifice a pig for the New Year (Tet). This is a tradition that takes place in every home around the village. Throughout the night and into the early morning we awoke to the sound of squealing pigs. Can you hear the lambs screaming, Clarice?





Eagerly awaiting our pig meal (which would be our second dinner in 3 hours).



Grandpa:



Mmmmmm dinner:



As part of the Tet tradition, each of us had to drink raw pig's blood which had coagulated due to the cold. Thanks, Derek.



The only way to top pig's blood in the evening is to drink it in the morning as well. Lucky for us, our host family chose to sacrifice their pig early the next day. Instead of fluffy banana pancakes, we partook in another delicious pig meal (including another bowl of pig's blood).



Other than a few hot flashes from drinking the blood, we survived and made it back to Hanoi.

Waiting for Handspan to open in the wee hours of the morning...CHOCOLATE TORTE (the anticipation begins to mount):



Then it was off to Hoi An via Danang. Highlight: Stacey was able to get on the PA system of the aircraft and make an announcement. This may have been Justin's lowlight.

Hoi An, once known as Faifo, was a major international port in the 16th and 17th centuries, and the foreign influences are discernible to this day. While the serious shipping business has long since moved to Danang, the heart of the city is still the Old Town, full of winding lanes and Chinese-styled shophouses.

Here, we biked around the town, ate, drank, went for massages, saw fireworks, ate, lost a bike key, went to the beach and ate.